Leaving Grand Harbor began our descend down the Tenn-Tom (Tennessee-Tombigbee) Waterway mm 450 to mm 217 north of Demopolis, AL. The idea for the waterway was first conceived in c. 1770 by the French. Six other investigations were made and revised until finally approved in 1971. Two hundred years to initiate it and 12 more to complete. Without this waterway, loopers would have to travel down the Mississippi to New Orleans, a much longer and less scenic trip. Of coarse, that was not the basis for the project. Commercial traffic was the was the economic justification. The Tenn-Tom is the Army Corps of Engineers largest project. It’s 5 times longer and has a 3.5 greater lift than the Panama Canal! Ten locks were constructed to breach the 414’ difference in water level. The Tenn-Tom is divided into 3 sections, the Divide Cut, the Canal Section and the River.
The Divide Cut
The first section is 25 miles long
and is as the name implies, it was cut right through the land. There is no
stopping or anchoring along this section. Baffles are used to prevent creeks
from rushing in after a rain.
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| The Divide Cut off our bow |
Done Dreaming
spent the night at Five Fingers cove while Irish Attitude went around the corner to Bay Springs Marina. Mike wanted to
install the new water pumps. The hose included was not the correct one (of
course!). We used the courtesy car to go into Booneville, our second trip in as many days. It was dark and there was
not one straight half mile section of road between the marina and town. Three
auto parts stores later and we were no further ahead. It looks like they will
have to be ordered.
The Canal Section
The Army Corps of Engineers
bypassed the river on this 52 mile section with the aid of 6 locks. Jamie
Whitten Lock started us off with an 84 foot drop, the third highest lock east
of the Mississippi. One September, Saranna, Jim's Joy and Good Karma joined us in the lock. We made 4 locks (Whitten, Montgomery, Rankin and Fulton) before
stopping in Smithville Marina, at mm 376.7, for the night. The marina was not
much to behold but the people were very friendly. We finished the last 2 locks
(Wilkins and Amory) in the canal section the next morning. Since the locks were
so close together the lock masters coordinated the traffic running north and
south and there was little to no waiting.
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| Limelight and Bama Belle left their mark on the lock bollard. |
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| Rankin Lock required a raincoat even though the skies were clear! |
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| The view from atop Wilken Lock. Looking down bound, another boat waits their turn. |
Our day continued as we
entered the river section and 2 more locks were ahead (Aberdeen and Stennis). The Corps of Engineers accomplished a great deal on this 149 mile section. The river was ‘canalized’, eliminating the natural bends and creating ‘ox bows’ off the newly straightened sailing
line. A few of these spots make good anchorages but there was not much care
taken to clear out the sunken or partially submerged trees. After coming out of
the last lock, Done Dreaming’s engine began to overheat. Michael shut it down
and they limped into Columbus Marina at mm 338.8 on one engine. The problem was a split in a cooling hose. Our water pumps were still lacking the necessary
hoses so a few days in port were in needed to get supplies shipped in. Cool temperatures gave us little boast about to our friends up north.
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| A reminders why it's wise to follow the sailing line |
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| November skies look the same in Columbus, MS |
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| Water hyacinth cover wide areas of the river |
Talk around the marina was
that a boat had run aground in one of the ox bows. Since ‘T’, the marina
owner, was also a Tow Boat US captain he went out to the rescue. Our concern
grew as we learned that the boat belonged to our friends, Shirley and Tony on Headquarters. Amazingly no damage was
incurred!
Our time in port was not wasted. Skyfall, the new James Bond movie, was playing and we went with Michael and Mundy one afternoon. Columbus, we learned, was not a military target during the Civil War but it was the site of an army hospital. Women of Columbus placed flowers on the graves on both Union and Confederate soldiers, it was called Decoration Day. This was the precursor for Memorial Day celebrated today. Many antebellum homes still remain within the city limits. Headquarters, Done Dreaming and Irish Attitude piled in the courtesy car for the hunt of these pre-civil war homes. Tennessee Williams’ home was also on our list. Waverly Mansion, in nearby West Point, MS was my favorite. The amazing thing about this home is that is sat abandoned for 50 years and although it was a popular place for teenage parties it was not damaged or destroyed. Time and nature did take its toll on the property. The current owners purchased it in 1962 and have spent a lifetime restoring this manor; it’s a true labor of love. The Snow family still resides there today! It was a warm the day we visited, but it was surprisingly cool inside. Each room had its own porch and fireplace.
In the morning we will be on our way once again. If we were not wanders before, we are now!
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| Waverly Mansion |
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| One of many antebellum homes in Columbus |
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