Friday, May 17 - Friday, May 24, 2013
The contrast in topography entering
North Carolina was pronounced! Much of this is due to the location the ICW is to the shore. Just as our pictures from Myrtle Beach, S.C. may not be what you would imagined or experienced. The ICW was inland at that stretch.
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The Atlantic Ocean Can Be Seen Just Beyond the Sand |
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Yikes! |
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Homes With a 360 Degree View from the Top! |
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Local Sheriff's Dept. Flew Right Overhead! |
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Yacht Basin on the Cape Fear River |
Irish Attitude made her way safely along the
Cape Fear River part of the ICW. (I did keep a look out for Robert De Niro, just in case he made it this far!) The military is ever present and on guard along the coast. We skipped a side trip up river to Wilmington. A military ship was loading fuel and was heavily guarded by 3 small boats, armed with 50 caliber machine guns. A reminder all to give them a wide berth. Message received!
Snow's Cut would take us through to
Carolina Beach where we planned to anchor for the night.
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Coasties! |
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Military Patrol Boats (barely visible) Had a Commanding Presence! |
Well, the inevitable happened. We ran aground. Hard aground! Talk is, 'if you do the loop, you will run aground'. The engines stalled! The props were buried. Mike said he was glad we made it this far and luckily we were on a soft bottom. Of course the tide was ebbing as the current was pushing the water out to sea. So out went the call (phoned in, not the VHF radio) to
Tow Boat U.S. Unlimited towing is a must for this journey. We waited a short while for 'John' to arrive on the scene. At John's request Mike attached a line to the
Irish Attitude, not in effort to pull us out but to center the tow. He proceeded to 'dig' us out by 'blowing' the sand out from under the
Irish Attitude with the power of his engines. Before any improvement was noticeable, John got called away on an emergency. Mike said, "No problem, we aren't going anywhere." A sailboat on the ocean side had lost power and was heading to shore. A keel style boat can tip sideways in shallow water, possible sinking it. We were high and dry but safe. Forty-five minutes later, John returned to start the process again. Rotating between the port then the starboard side. She was starting to rock a little, a good sign! Eventually we floated loose and John waited until we were secured to a mooring ball. We had anchored long enough! Our predicament made interesting entertainment for the locals. One very nice man (so sorry we never got your name!) checked the depth for the tow boat and even brought us some flounder he had caught and froze. Silver linings!
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Heading Into Carolina Beach |
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Capt. John Became Mike's Hero! |
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The Wave Action Made Easy Picking for the Birds |
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Twin 175's |
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As Time Went On The Birds Were Able to Stand in the Shallow Water |
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All's Well That End's Well |
Any interest in going ashore had vanished. Mike handled the stress amazingly. One engine was running hot so the next morning he checked the filters to see if they were plugged. The seaweed was paper thin and resembled the green plastic wrap used to cover Christmas cookies. A big wad was covering the water intake valve that cools the engine. Mike went under the boat and scrubbed it clean. Problem solved, crisis averted. Mike is my hero!
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Locals Line Beaches Along the ICW |
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This Sand Bar Had an Artificial Palm Tree and a Parking Meter! |
It was a short day today, less than 40 miles. We got a late start and frankly we were still exhausted from yesterday. It was still about 5 hours on the water at the speed we travel. There were no marinas or anchorages listed on
Active Captain for Topsail Island so we pulled into
Harbor Village Marina just south of
Surf City.
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These Dunes Kept The View Interesting |
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This Looks Like a Fun Spot |
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Harbor Village Marina |
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Our View Out the Back |
We dropped the dinghy and went in search of the beaches we saw people at earlier. You've gotta love boating when you jump in your dinghy at the end of your cruising day! We forgot about the tides. The inviting beaches were no longer there. No wonder they have a parking meter! Ha! We did see the 3 tugs heading up the ICW! Turns out Sea-N-Red damaged their prop traveling through the 'Rock Pile' north of Myrtle Beach and they were held up with repairs.
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Pink Overload |
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That Line of Still Water is Just Coating a Sand Bar |
Motoring the next day we needed to finalize our destination.
Morehead City or
Beaufort (pronounced Bo-fert in N.C.). We chose Morehead City but Beaufort may have been a more interesting port, historically speaking. Although our stern view may not please everyone it was... interesting. Plus we ran into the tug trio again. Mike and I were out walking and I could hear Phyllis. The group was prowling the bushes and I called to them from across the street, "Hey! What are you guys doing in the bushes!" Heads popped up everywhere. After being with them in Georgetown we knew what they were up too, Geocaching! A treasure hunt of sorts. Locating the treasure is aided by the GPS on your phone. I couldn't help but get involved but, alias, no luck. It appears someone took off with the treasure, a definite rule breaker! We said our good byes as they would be leaving the next day. We stayed an extra day while Mike changed the engine oil and I worked on the blog.
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Destination - Morehead City |
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Crew Lines Up for Life Pod Training |
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Imagine 20 People Crammed In Here as the Mother Ship Sinks |
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The Pod is Stowed Away |
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City Art |
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This is a Deep Sea Fishing Mecca |
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Clouds Role In |
On May 21st we pulled out of Morehead City. The ICW would widen out here but the the path would narrow considerably. Plotting became more critical to keep us on track in the wind. We anchored out near
Bonner Bay in Bay River along the east side of
Pamlico Sound. There were only few spots listed and the shallow water made the bay rough. Holding is considered only good, not excellent in most of coastal North Carolina. This was true here. We went about 3 miles in before we found a spot that had enough land to block the wind. A Tow Boat Capt. in Morehead City nixed our thoughts on crossing Pamlico Sound to
Okracoke Island. He said it was so shallow we would do best to follow the ferrys over. Recalculating.
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Clouds Tell the Future |
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Protected Cove |
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We Still Squeaked Out a Sunset |
We were making good time in our northern trek. The weather was still unstettled and
Dowry Creek made a great stop over at $1.50 per ft. per night. Plus that annoying electricity charge. Active Captain had 105 reviews, mostly glowing. What a friendly place. It had been a hot, windless day and a dip in pool was first on my list. We used the courtesy car (remember those!) to run into town for a few provisions, with a warning to watch out for bears. Mary encouraged us to join them for docktails by the pool later. A group of boaters from New Bern joined us. It was obvious they were enjoying life.
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Tree of Parties Past |
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Pool at Dowry Creek |
Mike and I followed the New Bern group out the next morning as we were all heading to
Alligator River Marina. Twenty miles through the narrow
Pungo Canal then into the wider but shallower Alligator River. The water was choppy and the wind was strong and spitting rain, not a good combination. Luckily the dock hands were skilled. The experienced group we traveled with warned us that Ms. Wanda was in charge in we should be careful to follow the rules. Not a issue. We went up to dinner and had BBQ pork sandwiches. After ordering Ms.Wanda came by and asked if we had every had coastal North Carolina BBQ. No ma'am! It is made with with a vinegar base, not a smokey or sweet sauce we were accustomed too. We were surprised to find how much we liked it. The secret is in the cole slaw it is served with. I guess we passed because we were not asked to leave.
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Alligator River Marina |
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Marina Entrance |
The next morning we took off unusually early for us and before the others. The Albemarle Sound is reputed to be a rough crossing. We figured observing the 'crack of dawn' philosophy would be in our best interest. Storms were expected that afternoon so we wanted to get into Coinjock as early as possible. We made such good time the dock had barely clear enough to accomodate us. Coinjock Marina has 1200 ft. of dock and they know how to load it up. Reservations are wise as the dock fills up. Those 70 ft. yachts take up... well..... 70 ft.! It was Memorial Weekend and we would be here for the holiday. From here we could rent a car (out of Elizabeth City actually) and visit the Outer Banks. Enterprise will pick you up!
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A Long Dock |
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Cypress Swamp as
Waterway Narrows Again |
OBX - How many times have I seen that oval sticker on the back of cars.At 70 mph I could never get close enough to read the fine print. The Outer Banks, duh! Saturday we drove over to the barrier islands. Once on Hatteras Island we drove along highway 12, a more scenic route. It seemed most every place was available to rent. Mike and I had breakfast on the Nags Head Fishing Pier then headed south.
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Nags Head's Name Originated From the Land Pirates that Lured
Ships to Shore by Placing a Lantern on a Mules Head
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Traditional Style Home |
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Homes Gave Way to Dunes |
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Kite Boarders Over Pamlico Sound |
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Kitty Hawk Kites Company Sponsored Event |
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We Caught the Free Car Ferry to Ocracoke Island at Hatteras Landing |
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We Rode this Smaller Ferry on Our Return Trip |
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Pamlico Sound |
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The Ferry Lands 12 Mile Outside of Town.
This Road Reminded us of Michigan |
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Dinner was at Jolly Roger. Silver Lake was so
crowded we were glad we did not bring our boat over. |
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Ocracoke's Beach were Voted one of the Top
Ten Beaches in the US |
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Ocracoke Lighthouse |
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Hatteras Lighthouse |
Sunday we got some work done at the boat. We ran into Elizabeth City to for a Wal-Mart trip. On Monday we were back on the OBX. This time we started with the Wright Brothers Memorial and then headed north.
In December 17, 1903 the Orville and Wilbur Wright of Dayton, Ohio successfully completed the first airplane flight. It was not Kitty Hawk but down the road 4 miles in Kill Devil Hill. First the brothers developed gliders and flew them off Kill Devil Hill.
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First in Flight Monument Atop Hill |
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Looking Up the Hill in 1903 and 2013 |
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Museum and Landing Field Viewed from Atop Kill Devil Hill |
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Marking the Wright Brothers 1st Flight |
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The Brothers Took Turns Piloting |
The northern part of the island was more resort-ie and higher end homes. At the end is a Corolla Village with historical buildings and a lighthouse. There was also an area with wild horses. We walked through and did not see any horses but did see (barely visable) 'Swamp Rats' that had cute little faces like an otter.
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Tomorrow, another day, another state!